Hola, Mеxico!

Tequila is often referred to as 'cactus vodka', but that is a fairly common mistake. In fact, the agave plant from which the drink is made is akin to the liliaceous plants and the amaryllis, which have been indigenous to the South American continent for nine thousand years. The native Indians called the agave the 'tree of wonders', and used its sharp thorns as needles, its leaves for making clothes, and its core as food. Today in Mexico there are 136 varieties of this plant, but only one – the blue agave (Agave Azul Tequilana Weber) – is suitable for making tequila.

Tequila's Genealogical Tree

Many alcoholic drinks never change for centuries from the time they first make their appearance. But this is not the case with tequila, which is possibly the only alcoholic drink with a family tree, being preceded by two whole generations.

According to the chroniclers, the founder of the tequila line was a fermented beverage made from the agave plant, which was called pulque and which was invented by the South American Indians long before the birth of Christ. In appearance, pulque is a thick, milkywhite and slightly foamy drink with a sweetish, fruity taste; it is not particularly strong, about 4-8% alcohol.

There are various stories about how pulque came into being, and they all point to its divine origins. According to one of the legends, a god split the agave into two equal halves with lightening and cooked the core. When they tasted the sweet, foaming juice coming from the split agave, the Indians decided that the lightening had turned into nectar.

The legends of the Zapoteca Indians mention the goddess, Mayatl, who fell in love with a handsome warrior. A wonderful elixir oozed from her breasts, thanks to which her lover never tired. The Aztecs identified the agave with the goddess of fertility, Mayauel, who had four hundred breasts and the same number of children. The strongest and chief of her brood was Ome Tochtli, the god of pulque. The Indians believed that drinking pulque was the same as taking a suck from the breast of the goddess.

Only old men, priests and those who were to be sacrificed to the gods were permitted to drink the sacred liquor; the rest of the population could consume it only on the Days of the Dead (the last five days of the calendar year) – to break this law meant a public beating, loss of position in the tribe, and even death.

When the Spanish conquistadors arrived in America, the local population willingly allowed them to drink pulque, because they thought they had come down from the heavens. The leader of the conquistadors, Hernan Cortez, gave a detailed description of this drink in his first letter to Charles I of Spain.

The conquistadors consumed a lot of the drink and enjoyed it, except that the strength of this 'nectar of the gods' seemed to make more of a children's drink. On the other hand, shipping wine and brandy from the Old World seemed like too much trouble. Accordingly, they began to make alcohol from local produce.

The first distillation of pulque took place in 1521. The procedure for this was as follows: the core of certain types of agave was baked in pits faced with stones. Then the fermented juice was dry-distilled. The resulting hooch they called 'agave wine', and later mezcal. But mezcal was only an intermediary stage on the route to tequila. The most interesting bit was yet to come.

We say 'tequila' – we mean 'Mexico'

In 1530, the Spanish captain, Christopher de Ocate, founded the small town of Tequila in the region of Jalisco, and by 1600 the country's main production of mezcal was concentrated round it. Don Pedro Sanchez de Tagl ordered huge agave plantations to be laid here and organized the first mezcal distillery.

By 1700, the town of Tequila was in a very advantageous geographical position from the point of view of trade, because it lay right on the road to San Blas on the Pacific Coast. Mezcal became one of Jalisco's main export products.

But this happy state of affairs did not last long. In 1785, Charles III of Spain decided to support national producers and banned the production of any alcoholic drinks in Mexico. That meant that only wines and liquors imported from Spain could be consumed in Mexico.

History knows numerous instances when a state has banned or restricted the production of alcohol. The result has always been the same – and the confrontation between Charles III and his overseas subjects was no exception. The production of agave 'moonshine' went underground, where it remained until 1792, when the new king, Ferdinand IV, removed the ban, realizing that the crown would do much better to tax the production of mezcal.

Ome Tochtli

The first half of the 19th century was a troubled period: first the war of independence from Spain and then the war with America for its own territory. In these troubled times of war, mezcal practically replaced money – and, furthermore, the liquid currency had the most stable rates on both sides of the front.

In their conflict with the United States, Mexico lost Texas, Nevada and California. But with the building of the railroads in the 1880s, Mexico's former enemies became great admirers of the country's tequila-making talents. In 1893, 'Mexican brandy', as it was called, even won a gold medal at the Chicago World Trade Fair.
At approximately the same time, i.e. in the late 19th century, mezcal made in the environs of the town of Tequila finally took its name from that of the town – in the same way as French brandy had at one time become cognac. But by then, the owners of the distilleries had considerably altered their production technology (about which, we give more details below).

In 1910, a civil war broke out in Mexico, and tequila became the symbol of revolutionary passions – it was the drink of the insurgents under Pancho Villa. Although Pancho himself was a confirmed teetotaller, his grateful descendents named one brand of tequila in his honour. There is also another brand of tequila named in honour of the noble brigand's horse.

But the waves of revolution and the subsequent years of depression resulted in a considerable cutback in the production of tequila. However, prohibition in America helped the tequila industry rise from the ashes – the Mexican route was one of the favourites for American bootleggers.

After the Second World War, tequila changed its image once more. In Mexican films, a new character made his appearance – the real rough macho type with a fixed scowl, but a tender heart, whose constant companions through all his exciting adventures were a beautiful girl and a glass of tequila. It was a drink for real men – such, at any rate, was the image of tequila projected for the Mexicans and, incidentally, for everyone else. And it went down well.

Today tequila is as much associated with Mexico as vodka is with Russia. It has become a symbol, the popularity ratings of which have outstripped those of the sombrero, the poncho and fajitas.

Tequila and the Law 

Popular belief has always had it that tequila is a type of vodka. But like Cognac, Champagne, and the finest French wines, its name is controlled by its origins.

The first attempts to protect the name of the popular drink were only made during the Second World War, and the first laws regulating its production did not come till much later in 1974. The final redaction of the law – the Norma Oficial del Tequila, or the NORMAS – was passed in 1977.

Since then, only alcoholic drinks produced from the juice of the blue agave grown in the State of Jalisco and in certain regions of other states – Guanajuato, Michoacan, Nayarit, Tamaulipas – can legally be called tequila. Immediately after NORMAS came into force, the government conducted the obligatory certification of all tequila distilleries.

Apart from everything else, NORMAS give the Mexican government copyright over the word 'tequila'. This means that all those who wish to produce the drink must obtain permission to use this intellectual property.

In 1992, all controlling functions were passed to a specially created Tequila Production Supervisory Council (Consejo Regulador del Tequila, CRT). The Council is responsible for checking the quality of the agave and the percentage of agave and other sugars present in the drink, and its representatives seal the tequila casks intended for ageing.

Incidentally, every label on a tequila bottle should have the abbreviation CRT and NOMC (Norma Oficial Mexicana de Calidad – the Mexican state quality standard). These confirm that the producer enterprise and the product conform to NORMAS.

The Route of the Blue Agave

The warm climate makes it possible to produce tequila the whole year round. But if you consider the time taken from the creation of a blue agave plantation to the moment when the tequila is actually bottled, even given the most optimistic sequence of events, this will be approximately ten years.

Most of the time is taken up with the actual growing of the agave plant, since a plant takes a minimum of eight years before it is ready to be made into tequila. The drink is made from the core of the agave which is found in the thick part of the plant, known as the 'cask'. It starts to grow while still under the earth, but soon comes out into the light. At the moment of harvesting, the 'cask' with its almost two-metre needle-like leaves (from which the agave is thought to be a cactus) weighs from 35 to 135kg. The 'cask' resembles a giant pineapple, so one of its Mexican names is pina (which in Spanish means an exotic fruit). One pina can give from 5 to 13 litres of 100% tequila.

The pinas are cut into several parts and put into special stone ovens, where they are 'sweated' for two or three days at a temperature of 65-85°C. Many tequila producers use autoclaves instead of ovens. Then the hot pinas are left to cool, and a day later they are pounded into a puree which proves to be an excellent source of aquamel (lit. honey water). This syrup is mixed with water, special yeast or cane sugar is added, and the mixture is left to ferment in wooden barrels or steel vats. With classical technology, fermentation lasts 7-12 days, but in this age of speed, the wonders of science make it possible to reduce this time to two or three days. True, connoisseurs claim that rapidly fermented tequila is far inferior to its 'conservative kinsman'.

The fermented juice reaches a strength of 7-12%, which after the obligatory double distillation increases to 55%. But the drink doesn't remain as strong as that for long. It then undergoes compulsory dilution with distilled water till it maintains the usual 40%. But the crafty Mexicans dispatch the 40% drink for export, while retaining a stronger version for themselves with the result that tequila intended for the internal market can be as high as 48%.

Blue agave

Tequila Studies

To find two brands of tequila that are identical in taste is not an easy task. Each manufacturer has his own secrets relating to such things as the way in which the agave is baked, the type of yeast added during fermentation, the time taken for the tequila to mature, and whether traditional or automated production methods are used (tequila prepared traditionally by hand is considered an elite drink).

But the types and subtypes of tequila are far from being determined by the above-mentioned technological nuances. The main thing is the quantity of agave juice that ultimately gets into the drink. By this characteristic, tequila is divided into two categories: tequila premium – where the content is comprised of 100% agave (and 100% agave is stated on the label); and standard tequila (also known as tequila mixto), where the amount of agave juice must be no less than 51%, and the remaining 49% is farmed out among mixed sugars (local crystallized or unrefined cane sugar, unrefined brown sugar, or corn syrup). Tequila is also differentiated by age, and whether or not the ageing has taken place in barrels.

Tequila that has not been aged is bottled immediately after distillation. It is of two kinds: Blanco (white, but also known as Plata [silver]) and Oro (golden). All freshly produced tequila is transparent, and any shades of colouring are due either to the drink being aged in barrels or to the presence of caramel. For example, the golden colour of tequila oro is due entirely to the addition of caramel. And, incidentally, the word oro refers primarily to the colour of the drink and not to its quality, since the very presence of the caramel deprives the drink of any premium status.

There are also two kinds of matured tequilas: Reposado and Anejo. Tequila reposado (which means 'rested') is matured in barrels from two months to a year. Close contact with the wood gives it a darker colour, and a richer taste and aroma.

The presence of the word anejo on the label means that the tequila has been 'confined' for a much longer period – from one to ten years – in a barrel with a maximum capacity of 350 litres. The optimum period for tequila of this category to age is considered to be four to five years. Under Mexican law, every barrel that claims to hold anejo must be sealed by a representative of the Tequila Production Supervisory Council. This ruling was adopted not only because the Mexican legislators followed analogous laws in France when creating NORMAS. The point is that what they call the 'angels' share' (the percentage of moisture that evaporates during ageing) is very high in Mexico due to the hot climate with the result that half the contents of a barrel can sometimes evaporate. And certain sharp producers will make up for that loss.

Basically, anejo tequila is an acquired taste, because it's considered that the oak of the barrels gives it an aggressive tang that destroys the subtle aroma of the agave.

But some admirers of the drink claim that only vintage tequila is the real tequila. And in some respects they are right. First, because anejo-class tequila is usually made from 100% agave juice; and secondly, because you can experiment with the taste of vintage tequila. Tequilas that have been matured in new barrels of French or American oak differ markedly from tequilas that have been aged in old barrels saturated with tequila, and they both differ from tequilas that have been matured in barrels that formerly contained Scotch whisky, sherry, cognac or bourbon. But producers don't stop at this; they frequently create new blends by mixing tequila from various containers before bottling it.

Lime

How to Drink Tequila

It's impossible to tell what tequila is most loved for – its exotic origins or the bizarre way in which it is consumed. The most widespread method comes under the scheme"Lick – Down – Bite"; the most exotic involves the cooperation of a halfnaked beauty. Comfortably placed between them are the cocktail Margarita, the Rapido, tequila and sangria, and tequila and chilli pepper. And whereas in the case of the chilli, everything is clear (before downing the shot, a hot pepper is popped in the mouth), the other methods need some explanation.
Method №1 is better known as "Lick – Down – Bite". It requires no special knowledge or skill – all you have to do is remember the sequence of actions. Place the thumb and first finger of your left hand together and rub them with a piece of lime. Then sprinkle a small pinch of salt on the same place and lick it. Immediately down the glass of tequila (usually about 50ml), and bite into a slice of lime. It's said that this method of drinking tequila was thought up by doctors in the 1920s, when there was a flu epidemic in Mexico. Having no antibiotics, the doctors prescribed tequila with salt and lime – and the epidemic was stopped.

Method №2 is the Margarita, one of the most popular cocktails in the world. The story of its origins is shrouded in a mass of myth. According to one version, the person who invented the first Margarita was a barman named Carlos Errera, who thought up a simultaneously hot and mild mix for the new actress, Margarita King. Another version is less romantic. In 1948, Tommy Hilton, the owner of the famous hotel chain, stayed at a villa in Acapulco as one of the guests of the Texan socialite, Margarita Sames, where he tried a mixture of tequila, Cointreau and lime juice. Shortly afterwards the drink, named in honour of the villa's hostess was offered to guests at the Hilton.

The classical recipe for a Margarita comprises one part tequila, one part lime juice and half a part orange liqueur. Margaritas are drunk from special coneshaped glasses with long stands. The rim of the glass is moistened with lime juice and dipped into crystallized salt giving it a frosty appearance. The cocktail itself is mixed in a shaker, cooled and carefully poured into the glass, which is decorated with a slice of lime.

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Method №3 is the Rapido. A little tequila and tonic are first poured into a tall glass. The drinker should them cover the glass with his hand, hit the table hard with his fist, and down the contents of the glass in one. The point of this method is that the sharp jolt makes the tonic bubble, and the drink becomes a foaming milky mix.

Method №4 involves drinking tequila with sangrita (not to be confused with sangria). Sangrita is a refreshing non-alcoholic chaser including tomato juice, lime juice, chilli pepper and a mass of other spices.

The final method, which is of a clearly erotic nature, requires the salt to be licked from the shoulder of a reclining female and the tequila to be drunk from her navel – the lime is held by the girl between her teeth.

But real tequila connoisseurs and experts are of the opinion that these methods are just barmen's tricks; they drink tequila from a small shot glass with a thick bottom called a caballito (or 'little horse'), and they drink it unhurriedly in small sips. And, incidentally, in combination with a cigar this method is the best of the lot.

Cigar Clan 5'2007 vol.1. Yulia Zorina